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The Abbey of Sant'Antimo, one of the
most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy, is located only 9 km from
Montalcino.
According to tradition, in 781 Charlemagne was returning from Rome along the
Via Francigena. While camped near Monte Amiata, many in his court and army
were struck down by plague. During the night, an angel appeared to the
Emperor in dream and recommended that he pick a particular grass, dry it and
then make an infusion with some wine and have it drunk by the soldiers. He
did this and the army was cured. The grass is known to this day as
"Carolina". In return for an end to this scourge, the Emperor promised to
found the abbey.
According to historians, the foundation goes further back, to the Longobards
and the Monastery of St. Savior (Salvatoris) at Monte Amiata. It is possible
that the Abbey of Sant'Antimo was constructed on the site of a Roman villa
and it is known with certainty that in the 4th and 5th centuries the village
of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on the hills nearby, was an important inhabited
centre, endowed with a parish.
The monastery of Sant'Antimo was in existence in the year 814, as indicated
by a document from one Ludovico the Pious that endows the abbey with gifts
and privileges. In the 9th century, the abbey faced financial difficulty, to
the point that in the 877 Charles II, "the Bald", entrusted it to the Bishop
of Arezzo, with the obligation to maintain 40 monks there at his own
expense. From the 10th century, the abbot of the monastery was also the
Count Palatino, a public position of great importance conferred by the
Emperor.
In 992, according to a deed emanating from Pope John XV (985-996), the
monastery passed into the direct jurisdiction of the Apostolic See. The year
1118 saw the beginning of the golden years of Sant'Antimo. Count Bernard
degli Ardengheschi surrendered his entire patrimony in goods and property,
including the Abbey, "in toto I reign Italic et in tota Tuscie marks" to
Hildebrand, son of Rustic. A testimony to this exceptional donation was
engraved on the steps of the altar as a perpetual memorial of the event. The
Abbot Guidone (1108-1128), who received the donation, immediately initiated
the great era of the construction of the new church, the Abbey of
Sant'Antimo. The apse of the original 9th century abbey still stands
alongside, and is dwarfed by, the new 12th century apse. The Abbey became
the most powerful monastic landowner and foundation in Tuscany, via its
imperial connections and gifts from those travelling the nearby Via
Francigena, the pilgrims' route to Rome. At its height, the Abbey owned
large tracts of eastern Tuscany from Lucca in the north to Orbetello in the
south.
The great years lasted up until the fall of Montalcino, on 12th June 1212,
to the Siennese who forced the abbey to sign a treaty surrendering a quarter
of the territory of Montalcino in Siena. The abbey then began its slow
decline. Entrusted to the Guglelmiti by Pope Nicholas IV (1288-1292) in a
deed dated 1291, a brief recovery occurred in the period from between 1397
and 1404 up to the suppression of the abbey in 1462 by Pope Pius II "Piccolomini"
(1458-1464) who entrusted it to the bishop of the newborn diocese of
Montalcino and Pienza, created on 13th August of the same year.
In 1866 the Italian government decreed the general suppression of the
religious orders. The monastic community was transferred to Pescia, where it
remained up to 1949. It was only in 1961 that it could re-enter in the Abbey
of Sant'Antimo, whose ownership has remained nevertheless with the State.
After the transfer of the abbey to the ownership of the new Italian state in
1867, a long period of physical restoration began that ultimately saved the
whole building. The restoration was initiated in 1872 and finished in 1895,
bringing the church to its current appearance. In 1992 religious activity
was reinitiated thanks to the arrival of the Regular Canons Premonstratensi.
No description or pictures can do more that provide a pale reflection of
charm of this place. The façade, which remains incomplete, houses a portal,
probably one of a pair planned originally, surmounted by a lintel datable to
the first half the 12th century, together with capitals, friezes and
ferrules. The element that confers a French imprint on this church more than
any other is the basilical ground plan, an ambulatory with radial chapels,
unique in Tuscany and among the few present in Italy. In the morning, the
sun plays on the ambulatory stonework which is the most precious among all
those used for the church: alabaster plus travertine from which the capitals
and columns are carved. The impact of the light streaming in is accentuated
by the nave floor which slopes slightly upwards towards the focus of the
dramatic 13th century Crucifix standing behind the altar.
The church is long at 44 m, and is guarded at the entry by two stylised
lions, probably destined for the external portal, datable to the 12th
century and attributed to the Master of Cabestany, as is the splendid
capital with the scenes of "Daniel in the lions' den." The refined
geometrical and leaf motifs, precise in outline and cleanly carved, indicate
an origin in Auvergne.
Other capitals located in the ambulatory exhibit a Lombard character
suggesting that Sant'Antimo was the work of two masters, or a Lombard who
had worked in Auvergne.
To the right of the larger church, set at the beginning of the ambulatory,
there is a Carolingian chapel of the 8th or 9th century, a small building
with a single rectangular aisle and a semicircular apse. Outside on the
left, the imposing bell tower rise to around 30 m, divided into four orders,
decorated in Lombard style with a with a hint of Pisan taste in the columns
at the angles of the base. The bell tower houses two bells, one of which is
engraved with Abbot Ugo's name (1216-1222) and the date 1219. |
Einst eines der mächtigsten Klöster des
Mittelalters, liegt Sant‘Antimo heute einsam in einem Tal, 10 km südlich von
Montalcino, inmitten von Feldern und Olivenhainen. Der Campanile
(Glockenturm) wird flankiert von einer großen Zypresse, und Ölbäume umgeben
die Apsis. Von der Abtei ist nichts mehr zu sehen, aber die erhaltene Kirche
ist unbestritten die schönste romanische Landkirche der Toscana.
Als Gründer von S. Antimo an der mittelalterlichen Pilgerstraße gilt Karl
der Große. Urkunden belegen, daß das Kloster 813 bereits bestand und mit
ungewöhnlich reichen Schenkungen bedacht wurde, die aus ihm schnell eine der
reichsten und mächtigsten Abteien des Landes machten.
Vieles spricht dafür, daß es der Bau der Kirche war, der den Niedergang der
Benediktiner-Abtei förderte, überstiegen doch die 1118 begonnenen Arbeiten
selbst die Finanzen eines so reichen Klosters; 1260 wurden die Bauarbeiten
unvollendet eingestellt.
Die Fassade ist schlicht und nur mit wenigen Schmuckelementen versehen.
Rechts schließt sich an die Kirche eine kleine, schlichte,
hochmittelalterliche Kapelle an, die sogenannte karolingische Kapelle, ein
rechteckiges Schiff mit halbrunder Apsis und ist heute als Sakristei
genutzt. Sie unterscheidet sich durch ihre unregelmäßig gesetzten, roh
behauenen Quadern eindeutig von den glatten Steinen der Kirche des 12.
Jahrhunderts. Unter ihr liegt eine Krypta, die die älteste der Toscana sein
soll.
Das dreischiffige Innere ist ungewöhnlich hoch, hat die typische romanische
Basilikaform mit Empore und Säulen und Kreuzpfeilern im Wechsel, hat aber
eine unglaubliche Leichtigkeit, zumal dann, wenn die Sonne durch die kleinen
Fenster kommt und die Alabaster-Säulen und –Kapitelle hell und licht
erscheinen.
Den Kapitellen sollte man besondere Aufmerksamkeit schenken - sie sind
außerordentlich sorgfältig ausgeführt, vermutlich französisch beeinflußt und
haben wunderschöne Motive; das Glanzstück ist „Daniel in der Löwengrube".
Die Emporen haben einen Durchgang zum Chorumgang bzw. einen Verbindungsgang
auf der Fassadeninnenwand. Einen Teil der Empore nimmt eine Bischofswohnung
ein, die im 15. Jh. eingerichtet wurde; ein Kamin ist noch zu sehen und an
den Wänden Freskenreste mit Szenen aus dem ländlichen Leben.
Es war die Wohnung eines Bischofs von Montalcino, der weltlicher Abt von
Sant‘Antimo wurde.
Auf den Altarstufen steht eine Art steinerner Chronik, die besagt, daß im
Jahre 1118 mit den Bauarbeiten begonnen wurde.
Zur Ausstattung gehören noch ein romanisches Holzkreuz und eine romanische
Holzplastik „Madonna mit Kind".
Rechts führt eine Treppe in die Krypta mit einem römischen Grabstein als
Altar.
1462 wurde der Konvent aufgehoben, aber seit 1979 lebt hier wieder eine
kleine Gemeinschaft von Augustiner-Mönchen. |